Morrissey in Tokyo, Orchard Hall - Nights 1 & 2

I've been loving the social media updates and watching my friends have such a great time at the Morrissey shows in Japan. Such excitement has helped me through a particularly bad return of the black dog. Japan looks fascinating, although I'd admittedly find the fact I can't read the language intimidating. Everything from scrumptious-looking vegan food to toilets that make "fax-machine sounds" to Cat Cafés (be still my heart!) have been gracing my timeline.

As we have a strong Japanese population in Western Canada, it's been interesting for me to observe, even from afar, what actual Japan is like. Particularly in Vancouver, we are huge embracers of Japanese culture, and I don't mean ultra-westernized Japanese-fusion 'culture,' as in the bizarre "going-out" kimono I bought a few years back at H&M, which I have never actually gone out in (on its arrival home I realized it looked less like a kimono and more like a smoking jacket...), or California-roll sushi (sushi was perhaps the only flesh thing I missed ever so slightly when I first went veggie, though not any more). No, here in Canada (particularly Vancouver) we have a fair bit of  relatively authentic Japanese culture happening. That said, it's nothing on how it looks to walk through the actual Tokyo streets themselves!

My wonderful Japanese friend @plainchant_w (on Twitter), who I've queued with in London, California, Germany, and Manchester managed to get some gorgeous photos and scintillating footage of Morrissey covering the Ramones' "Judy is a Punk" - I hope Morrissey keeps this in the setlist! I thought I'd post some of her photos and some others I've come across that I've really liked. 

Night 1:

photo by @plainchant_w

photo by @plainchant_w

Via @civic77si

The above photo - with the Present Box - is something I haven't seen before at a concert (perhaps this is done more often in Asia?) - but it really is a great idea for those who are far back and might not be able to get something to the stage.

photo by @plainchant_w

photo by Prodigalson8

photo via marcoxocram on Instagram

Setlist for Night 1 (from Setlist FM):

1. Suedehead
2. Alma Matters
3. You Have Killed Me
4. Ouija Board, Ouija Board
5. I'm Throwing My Arms Around Paris
6. World Peace Is None Of Your Business
7. Ganglord
8. Speedway
9. Kiss Me A Lot
10. All You Need Is Me
11. First Of The Gang To Die
12. The Bullfighter Dies
13. Meat Is Murder
14. Everyday Is Like Sunday
15. The World Is Full Of Crashing Bores
16. You're The One For Me Fatty
17. How Soon Is Now?
18. Jack The Ripper

Encore:

19. What She Said

Night 2:

photo by @plainchant_w

Photo by Curtis Butler (the_guru92 on Instagram)

@LizzyCatMoz captioned the above photo (on Twitter) the pole dancing photo - and I had to do a double take! Now I'm sensing a theme, keeping in mind this recent shot from the US:

And, finally there was a necklace mishap that Moz took with stride and handled with absolute grace. Bless him!:

Photo by Yukiko

Setlist For Night 2 (From Setlist FM):

1. Let Me Kiss You (WITH IMMEDIATE SHIRT TOSS!)
2. Everyday Is Like Sunday
3. Irish Blood, English Heart
4. Istanbul
5. Jack The Ripper
6. Kiss Me A Lot
7. Kick The Bride Down The Aisle
8. First Of The Gang To Die
9. World Peace Is None Of Your Business
10. I'm Throwing My Arms Around Paris
11. All The Lazy Dykes
12. It's Hard To Walk Tall When You're Small
13. Speedway
14. How Soon Is Now?
15. Oboe Concerto
16. How Can Anybody Possibly Know How I Feel?
17. The Bullfighter Dies
18. Ouija Board, Ouija Board

Encore:

19. Judy Is A Punk (Ramones cover)

I'm actually going to make vegan Japanese food tonight now. In other news, I've recently come across some dazzling new charming cardigan photos that I must organize... (it appears as though 2002 and 2009 were big cardigan years!), so I'm off to do that. I've also adopted a pet spider that sits on my window sill while I type, and I've named him Moogly (panic for a short time as he went into hiding, but... he's back!). Yes, I absolutely do talk to him. There was a time when I would fly into a terror over even tiny spiders, and I'm proud to say those times have changed, and that is thanks to Morrissey helping me learn to embrace all creatures. That said, massive spiders still send me into hysteric screams. Now we look to Osaka...

Morrissey in Louisville, Kentucky, September 20, 2016

At Louisville Palace

Since I'm not on the tour right now and these times work fantastically for me to update, I thought I'd post a couple of photos and the set list tonight like I did last time. Some friends and I who aren't attending shows right now are going through Moz-withdrawals, so I find myself hungrily refreshing social media for concert updates to get some glimpses of the excitement. One of my Twitter followers managed to take some absolutely gorgeous photos, and informed me that the lucky audience had the treat of an extra intimate show this evening with no barrier.


Here are some photos so far:

Photo by @BeardedSteven on Twitter

The inside of the venue looks exceedingly opulent:

Look at this beautiful t-shirt a fan made to wear to the show tonight:

Via timetravelingdandy on Instagram

Photo by @BeardedSteven

Photo via @LvillePalace on Twitter

Love, love, love this photograph:

By @BeardedSteven

Via tebay71 on Instagram

Shirt toss:

By @BeardedSteven

By @BeardedSteven

Setlist: (From Setlist FM)

1. Suedehead
2. Alma Matters
3. You Have Killed Me
4. Ganglord
5. Speedway
6. Kiss Me A Lot
7. World Peace Is None Of Your Business
8. Istanbul
9. I'm Throwing My Arms Around Paris
10. All You Need Is Me
11. Irish Blood, English Heart
12. Moon Over Kentucky - a cappella (Sparks Cover)
13. Jack The Ripper
14. Ouija Board, Ouija Board
15. You're The One For Me, Fatty
16. The Bullfighter Dies
17. Meat Is Murder
18. Everyday Is Like Sunday
19. All The Lazy Dykes
20. The World Is Full Of Crashing Bores
21. Oboe Concerto

Encore:

22. What She Said

Morrissey at Riot Fest Chicago, September 17th 2016

I was sitting here loving the updates on Twitter and Instagram and decided to put up some of the best photos I've come across, along with tonight's set list, since I haven't blogged in a while.  I don't dare write a lot though as I've had a little too much wine.

via Paulariggins on Instagram

Via hrv_images on Instagram

via chptr.co on Instagram

via @BeardedSteven on Twitter - who gave marvelous updates!

via nocountrynash on Instagram

And... my favourite photo from the night so far, and currently my Twitter profile photo:

via brownyo215 on Instagram

Setlist:

1. Suedehead
2. Alma Matters
3. You Have Killed Me
4. Ganglord
5. Speedway
6. Kiss Me A Lot
7. Irish Blood, English Heart
8. World Peace Is None Of Your Business
9. I'm Throwing My Arms Around Paris
10. All You Need Is Me
11. Jack The Ripper
12. Ouija Board, Ouija Board
13. The Bullfighter Dies
14. The World Is Full Of Crashing Bores
15. You're The One For Me, Fatty
16. Everyday Is Like Sunday
17. What She Said


* a couple more...

Via chicago_reader on Instagram

Via ralphph on Instagram

Via joshuamellin

My Glimpses Into Morrissey and the Smiths Manchester

My original intention was to post this article nearly two weeks ago, but I didn't get around to it for a number of reasons. While this is late, I'd say that's better than not at all. I doubt my memories are as clear as when I returned, and lazy as I tend to be, I didn't manage to journal a lot of my tour of Morrissey's Manchester; however, I do have loads of photos and certain memories that have stitched themselves into my consciousness. I'm not sure I dare call this part 3 of my reviews, considering how I'm posting this so long after returning from my trip.

Morrissey in Manchester by sam_esty_rayner_photography
https://www.instagram.com/sam_esty_rayner_photography/?hl=en

Meanwhile, I've been trying to settle back into the doldrums of 'typical' daily life, which appears to be mostly centered around what time I eat toast every day (as I've not just celebrated my 75th birthday, this seems to blatantly shout 'toska' from the rooftops). In being settled, I feel, of course unsettled, which is a natural reflection of how I just don't really connect with what I'm doing or where I'm living right now. I suppose many people go through this, and it's perhaps some kind of early midlife crisis. Anyway, I'm just being tangential and droning on (as usual!)... let's get to my tour of Manchester.

As I was unable to acquire tickets for the party at the Star and Garter, which likely would have led to a head-wrenching hangover of mammoth proportions (the Moz disco in Hull last September certainly left its mark), I was fairly fresh for our tour (run by Manchester Music Tours) on Sunday morning. Even though I was already languishing under post-Moz concert blues (you know the feeling), I was more perky than usual when stumbling through such a lull, as I couldn't wait to see some of the landmarks I'd only ever previously seen in photos.

It's a surreal feeling to cover so much history in 3 hours - and there is something intense about these glorious glimpses that makes you crave more.

The bus

Our first stop was Strangeways, which, of course inspired the title for the Smith's fourth studio album. On such a misty, drizzly, silent and grey Sunday morning, Strangeways seemed to take on an extra level of haunting as it loomed and gloomed over the city. One thing I didn't realize is that a number of executions took place there, which I suppose was a little naive of me. There's definitely a disturbing quality to 19th century prison architecture; it's a little bit chilling as you wonder what has gone on inside over centuries, and what kind of anguish - not ruling out the possibility of disturbed spirits - has been held - and is still held - within the confines of brick walls and under screeching spires. Someone from the depths of inside the prison saw our bus and began pounding repeatedly on the windows - I have no idea whether this was staged or not - but I couldn't help but wonder if they were bored, amused, or imploring us for release.  After the window-thumping settled, our tour guide, Craig Gill, who is also a drummer with Inspiral Carpets, told us stories of prison riots in the early 90's.

Morrissey, when asked by Melody Maker in 1987, why the album was titled Strangeways, Here We Come replied:

"Because the way things are going, I wouldn't be surprised if I was in prison 12 months from now. Really, it's me throwing both arms up to the skies and yelling 'whatever next?' Strangeways, of course, is that hideous Victorian monstrosity of a prison operating 88 to a cell. I don't have any crimes in mind but it's so easy to be a criminal nowadays that I wouldn't have to look very far. Life is so odd that I'm sure I could manage it without too much difficulty." 

Strangeways Here We Come...

Next stop was Salford Lads' Club, which included the pop-up MPorium shop - although by the time we arrived all of the autographed vinyls and copies of Autobiography had sold out (to be expected as we didn't venture over there until the third day). I managed to pick up some pins and a pen. We ran into some fellow queuers - one of whom had managed to snag a large piece of Morrissey's crimson shirt from the previous night. Naturally, I asked him if I could smell it, which is the most normal question on earth when it comes to shredded bits of Moz-shirt. Needless to say it smelled divine!  It was awe-inspiring to see all of the notes and photos on the walls and ceiling of the Smiths room. Of course, Salford Lads' Club is the site of what is one of, if not the most, iconic photos of the Smiths, taken in 1985. According to photographer Stephen Wright, the Salford Lads' shot was Mozza's idea: "it showed that [he] had such a brilliant and realised vision."

In 1985 (with Moz in the heartigan cardigan)

In 2016

The Smiths Room 

Next up was Morrissey's house, which, along with Southern Cemetery, was possibly the most anticipated stop (for myself) on our journey.  As we pulled up across the street from the house at 384 Kings Road, I felt overcome by a cascade of unexpected emotion. I suppose that's not entirely correct, I did expect to feel emotions but not to this extent - as a surreal sensation tugged at my chest and arms. Many of my friends had been here before and I knew it would be a powerful experience - but as Craig pointed out where Morrissey's old bedroom window was - my eyes trailed up, widened, and then welled up. Wow. Morrissey wrote in that bedroom for months and weeks and years - after walking through these same streets. He lived with depression, listened to records, wrote poetry, letters, lyrics, plays... my mind tumbled through thoughts... The other people chatted with the tour guide but their conversation had suddenly become distant billowing white noise, as I (utterly mesmerized) crossed the street, and (a little shakily) snapped some more photos. It feels strangely voyeuristic to take photos of someone's old house, regardless of whether a film is currently being shot there. I can't really explain it. Not wanting to burst into tears in front of the everyone, I bit my cheek and blinked as I crossed the street, the little stones on the slightly damp pavement crunching under my feet, to return to the chatty dozen others.

384 Kings Road

If you ever happen to be in this part of Manchester, you'll see the Iron Bridge is really close to Mozza's old house, as it was part of his daily commute to school. The bridge is not what many people expect, as I think some people imagine an intricate wrought-iron monstrosity in grandiose Victorian style. Well, I already knew it was going to be a strange bluey-silver peeling thing covered in delicious graffiti - and found this far more charming - and romantic!  To put it plainly, it's really bloody neat! People have left carvings and scrawlings and drawings of Smiths lyrics and little notes about Morrissey. There's also a melancholy train track lying below "And when a train goes by it's such a sad sound..."

As I walked along the bridge, again straying from the majority of my tour group (this was an unavoidable pattern for me) I read all of the messages. My friend Olivia had told me all about these - and they really are quite beautiful and fascinating to read; you could spend hours here. Some etchings are Smiths or Morrissey lyrics, some are lovelorn or forlorn scribbles and scrawls with dates; people leave their mark. Some messages are quirky, or amusing, or flirty - still others impact you with heartfelt profundity.

It feels a little like a raw art gallery of passion and angst and music under the mediums of spray-paint, pens, and pocket knives. The thought of writing my own message suddenly struck me... but how? I wasn't sure what to use... Then... like tempting heat in my purse throbbed the black sharpie I had brought around Berlin (in hopes of running into Moz).  I suddenly had my tool. A little jolting thrill coursed through my veins... I'm in a rather large group of people, discreetly trying to fumble through my purse to pull out a pen and add graffiti (however heartfelt) to a bridge. Was this even legal?  (I was in another country getting up to this, you know...) I awkwardly leaned against the wall of the bridge as I started to write - the iron ultra-cool against my warm little nervous hands - I must think fast - and my favourite song jumped to mind.  A violet-tressed teenage girl, probably the youngest on our tour noticed right away - "MUM - I WISH I BROUGHT A PEN." I finished my piece and passed it to her "Here you go," as her mum nervously whispered, "Ummm are we breaking the law?" We were reassured we were not, and it struck me how even peaceful and lovely acts such as these fall prey to our collectively ingrained fears of police control.

Our last stop was Southern Cemetery, which I prefer to spell Cemetry, for obvious reasons.  This is the location that inspired Cemetry Gates, the song Morrissey penned about graveyard walks with his best friend Linder on dreaded sunny days. The Cemetery itself is massive, and as we were under a limited amount of time on our tour, most people stayed around the gates. I naturally strayed a bit as my eye was drawn towards a statue of a veiled woman, her knees pulled up under a weighty stone tome. I wanted to take a photo of this statue, which shone pale under even slight sunlight. I'm not sure whose grave she overlooked, as I had very little time to linger. The sheer number of graves visible even from the entrance truly makes you think of all the generations of lives gone by. One day I hope to return and walk around for a while, as one could spend hours there, I'm sure.

And, before I knew it, it was my last evening in Manchester...

Here is one more photo before a rain-soaked twilight walk down cobbled streets and a return flight to Canada: